James Prinsep’s Survey of Benares (Varanasi or Kashi)

James Prinsep arrived in India in the second decade of the nineteenth century. His knowledge of chemistry resulted in his appointment as an assay master at the mint in Benares, now Varanasi, by the East India Company in 1820, though he “never belonged either to the civil or military service”[1] of the East India Company. He lived in Varanasi for ten years until the mint was abolished and he was asked to take the same position at the Calcutta (now Kolkata) mint.

In his free time, Prinsep became absorbed in studying Indian culture and history. His empirical study of Benares as a city and of its people presents a very interesting first-hand information about Benares of the 1820s. He not only recorded in writing what he saw but also drew maps, illustrations of people and conducted population census of the city. His rudimentary knowledge of the Sanskrit language did not deter him from seeking and exploring inscriptions and manuscripts found in Benares.

Many articles have been written on Prinsep and his contributions to Indology. This short article is about the map of Benares created by Prinsep.[2]

It is a very detailed map which is in the Asiatic Library, Kolkata.

He writes a Memoranda on the map which states the following:

Bunarus (in Sanscrit Baranusee) so called from its Site between the Burna & Ussee or from Raja Bunar, in whose time the present town was founded after the Moosulman invasions 800 Years ago; contains about 600,000 inhabitants 3/4ths Hindoos & 1/4^th Moosulmans, chiefly Weavers. The Streets are from 1 to 3 yards wide, mostly terminating in narrow Doors.

Prinsep listed 91 “Hindoo” temples of Benares. He calls them “Shiwalas.”

S. No	As mentioned on the original map	S. No.	As mentioned on the original map
1	Gyna bapee	47	Ugneswur
2	Visheshwur	48	Oopusanteswur
3	Unn pŏŏrna	49	Byunkutesh
4	Shunyshchureswur	50	Gubhusteeswur
5	Adivishweshwur	51	Bind madho
6	Dhoondhiraj	52	Dŏŏgdh binayuk
7	Sakshee binayuk	53	Umriteswur
8	Koteeswur	54	Kâl Bhyro
9	Bruhmeswur	55	Sheetla debee
10	Ugusteswur	56	Duňd panee
11	Lukshmi debee	57	Papbhukshewur
12	Tilbhandeswur	58	Mudhmeswur
13	Reňooka debee	59	Rutneswur
14	Dŏŏrga	60	Rajrajeswuree
15	Dŏŏrg binayuk	61	Mankeswur
16	Kŏŏkkŏŏteswur	62	Krittibaseswur
17	Koorŏŏkshetr	63	Brid     wur (Incomplete name as map damaged)
18	Pŏŏshkur	64	Ulpumrityoohueswur
19	Jugunnath	65	Jageswur
20	Lolark Kŏŏnd	66	Bageswuree
21	Urk binayuk	67	Siddheswur
22	Sungumeswur	68	Dhoopchundee
23	Swupneswur	69	Buré Gunesh
24	Chintamani binayuk	70	Jumbŏŏkeswur
25	Hunooman	71	Hunooman
26	Hunoomuteswur	72	Kulyanee debee
27	Kedareswur	73	Kundoo keswur
28	Sumshaneswur	74	Jygeeshubyeswur
29	Chutooshushtee	75	Byaghreeswur (gooha
30	Shooltunkeswur	76	Jyeteswur
31	Barahee debee	77	Byaseswur
32	Lulita debee	78	Lâth Bhyro
33	Suptaburn binayuk	79	Onkareswur
34	Swurgut dwaree	80	Kupurdeeswur
35	Tarkeswur	81	Byjnath
36	Siddh binayuk	82	Butook Bhyro
37	Munikurnikeswur	83	Dwarkanatheswur
38	Siddheswuree	84	Trilochuneswur
39	Atmabeereswur	85	Kameswur
40	Brihsputeeswur	86	Prublâdeswur
41	Basookeeswur	87	Burnaswngumeswur
42	Basistubamudeo	88	Adikeswur
43	Hurischuneswur	89	Khurbu binayuk
44	Sunkuta debeer	90	Chitrkot
45	Brindyubasinee	91	Dhurmkoop
46	Nageswur

Gyan Vapi is mentioned as a temple in the list above. This is interesting since the structure is called a mosque these days. The temple with the incomplete name (no.63) is most probably Briddheswur or Bridheswur, a corruption of Brihadeswara. It would be worthwhile to locate all the temples listed above in the Varanasi of today. I would request readers to locate them and share the coordinates.

On the map, Prinsep mentions a religious circumambulation called “Untr-Grihee Yatra” [Antargriha Yatra]. For a detailed description of this Yatra do read Rana Singh’s article given in the link below. [3]

The translation of the Untr-Grihee Yatra as given by Prinsep reads thus “Sacred Tour of ________ within the limits of the abode of Vishweshwur,” the most important word being effaced due to wear. Prinsep goes on to state that this tour:

 “passes seven times round Gyan Bapee well; a line thus ….. [marked as dotted line on the map] represents the first & exterior circuit, starting from the well to the Munikurnika, thence south &c, and ending at Shunkuta Ghat; the Second thus _._._ [dot and dash line on the map] continues up Loharee tola, Shukurkund galee, round again to Ka___lea [letters eroded] gulee; the Third passes through Unn Poorna, Visweshwur gulee &c to the Well; and the remaining four circles are performed round the Well itself.”[4]

Godowlia, now an area with Tripura Bhairavi Road, Dashashwamedh Ghat Road and Gyan Vapi Road marking its boundary, was then a nala which would go dry when the level of Ganga River became low. The narrow mouth of this nala was located between Dahsashwamedh Ghat and Sheetla Ghat. Though it is not marked clearly on the map, but there was a bridge over this nala behind the Dashashwamedh temple. On the Prinsep’s map the dotted route of the Antargriha yatra traverses over this bridge. The Godowlia nala extended further into the city and was connected to the Misrpokhra Jheel through an opening or a culvert under the road connecting “Ranee Bhawanee kee Bagh” to Old Adalat. This road is now the Khari Kuan/ Durga Kund Road.[5]

Below is a rough copy of a portion of the original map showing the Godoulya [Gowdolia] Nala and Misrpokhra Jheel and their link to the Ganga River.

By the 1860s, what was left of Godowlia nala was a kund named eponymously.[6] In this same map of 1860s, Misrpokhra Jheel is no longer a jheel but a smaller version of it and is named Messer Tank. Today there is no Godowlia Nala or kund nor Mirspokhra Jheel. However, the Rani Bhawani ki Bagh exists today as the Rani Bhawani Balika High School.

Prinsep also gives a list of main bazars and the principal commodity sold in each.

Name of Bazar (Spelling as given in Source)	Commodity
The Chouk	General Mart
Koonj Galee	Cloth Bazar
Trilochan	Corn
Khojwa	Corn (Inland)
Chouk, humb, ha [Choukhamba]	Greens
Deenanath Gola	Grocery
Ghihuta	Ghee
Khsaee Tola	Meat
Ourungabad [Aurangabad]	Horse Suray
That, here [Thateri]	Hardware
Rajakadurwazu	Basket ware

The other thing he lists is the major melas and Hindu festivals observed in Varanasi.

“Melas, or Principal Festivals observed yearly by the Hindoos at Bunarus”

Punch Kosee at Shiwpoor	7 Ughun
Pishach Mochun	29 Ughun
Nugurprudukshina	30 Ughun
Gunesh (bure)	4 Magh
Byjnath	14 Phagoon
Dhoolenree at Dusaswumedh	1 Chyt
Doorga (on the River)	1st Tuesday Chyt
Doorga for 9 days	16 Chyt
Ghazeemeea ka Beeah	1st Sunday Chyt
Gunga nuhana	3pm 26 Jet
Rut Jatra	17 Uskar
Shunkodhara (1 Kurk ka Sunkrunt)	Sawun
Sarnath & Gauri Koond	Every Monday Sawun
Bridhkal nuhana	Every Sunday Sawun
Nag Kooa nuhana	20 Sawun
Lolark Koond	21 Bhadoon
Burna sungum nuhana	27 Bhadoon
Ram Leela 15 days	11 Asin
Punchgunga ghat All the month	Katik
Hunooman Ghat	14 Katik

List of Thanas or Police offices given by Prinsep:

Chandnee Chouk

Kal Bhyro

Dasaswumedh

Ramapoora

Ghihuta

Jugutgunj

Ousan gunj

Qazee kee Mundei

Teleea Nala

Poorana Qilah

During Prinsep’s time, Varanasi had numerous water bodies, both natural and man-made. Of the waterbodies marked on the map, several are unnamed. Following is the list of lakes (Jheel), ponds (Tulao, as spelt in the map), tanks (kund), drains (nala or nullah), and some waterbodies termed as “Gurha.” Gurha is a corruption of “Gareh” which means lowlands on which water does not stay for long.[7] These are the ones named on the map, not in any particular order.

Bukreea Koond	Godoulya Nala
Goolar Ludhur Tulao	Vyapokhuree Tulao
Sunwrya Tulao	Matr Koond
Pin Mochun or Ludhoo Sular Tulao	Pitr Koond
Motee Jheel	Pisach Mochun
Pap Mochun	Khujooha Tulao
Ranee Bhuwanee Tulao	Mulduhya Tulao
Mutsyoduree Tulao	Chitrakot Tulao
Bhoolotur Gurha	Dhoopchundee Tulao
Haloo Gurha	Kuman Gurha
Huteeruth Tulao	Chorua Tulao
Doolee Gurha	Dhunestra Tulao
Mundakinee Tulao	N___guturee Gurha (letters erased)
Beneea Tulao	Digya Gurha
Soorj Koond	Mah Syed Gurha[8]
Gouree Koond	Vyapokhuree Tulao
Mansurwur Tualo	Dhanestra Tulao
Chukra Tulao	Doorga Koond
Rani Koond	Sakhutya Tulao
Misrpokhra Jheel	Hingooa Tulao
Godoulya Nala	Krun Koond[9]
Beneea Tulao	Nodaree Tulao
Soorj Koond	Jyootea Tulao
Gouree Koond	Reooree Tulao
Mansurwur Tulao	Shunkodhara Tulao
Chukra Tulao	Ram Koond
Rani Koond	Lakshmi Koond
Misrpokhra Jheel	Iswur Gunjee Tulao

Prinsep marked on the map the numerous ghats on the Ganga River. It cannot be confirmed whether he included all the ghats in existence at his time. The below illustration is copied from the original map. The illustration is not to scale though the names of the ghats are in the exact order as in the map.

James Prinsep’s drawings and illustrations of Benares can be seen in the link below.

https://umedia.lib.umn.edu/search?facets%5Bcreator_ss%5D%5B%5D=Prinsep%2C+James%2C+1799-1840.

The map discussed in this article can be accessed on the British Library Images online collection. The condition of this map is better than the one I have used for this article located in the Asiatic Library, Kolkata.

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[1] ‘The late Mr. James Prinsep,’ The Asiatic Journal and Monthly Register for British and Foreign India, China, and Australasia November 1840, Vol 33 new series, September-December 1840 (London, Wm. H. Allen and Co.), pp186-192 https://books.google.co.in/books?id=W6U3AQAAMAAJ&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&dq=james+prinsep&source=gbs_navlinks_s

[2] The City of Bunarus, Surveyed by James Prinsep, 1822, Asiatic Library, Kolkata.

[3]https://www.academia.edu/12915430/_112_02_Singh_Rana_P_B_2002_Vishveshvara_Antargriha_Yatra_in_his_Towards_the_Pilgrimage_Archetype_The_Panchakroshi_Yatra_of_Banaras_Pilgrimage_and_Cosmology_Series_Pub_2_Indica_Books_Banaras_222pp_72_figures_maps_ISBN_81_86569_30_8_2nded_2011_pp_164_171

[4] The City of Bunarus, Surveyed by James Prinsep, 1822, Asiatic Library, Kolkata.

[5] Google Map of Varanasi

[6] Cantonments of Sikrol and Pandypoor, also the Civil Station and City of Benares, Season 1867-1868, Surveyor General of India, National Library, Kolkata

[7] H. M. Elliot, Supplement to the Glossary of Indian Terms, A – J (Agra: Secundra Orphan press, 1845), 321. https://books.google.co.in/books?id=ThnNjANUtyoC&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&dq=Benares+gurha+water&source=gbs_navlinks_s

[8] Not clear on the map

[9] Not clear on the map